The Knit Guru

I have been on a sock knitting kick for a while now – and a constant epic quest to create a sock that will stay on in a gumboot. I don’t think I have gotten there yet though. However, here is a sock that is currently working as a sock if nothing else. Presently I am playing with Ribblr, and I am thinking that I will put this pattern into Ribblr and see if this helps.

The pattern is free here on my website. But if you want to have a looksee over at Ribblr for a pattern in a different form, I have listed it as a dollar. This is mainly as I get a lot of requests for PDF versions of my patterns, which I am still looking into hosting over here, but this interactive format is also desirable by some.

These are cuff down, heel flap socks.

I prefer to knit these on 2 circular needles – but any method you prefer is fine. But for this pattern I may refer to “needle 1 and needle 2” – but this is just the first and second half of the stitches.

You will need:
– DK (8 Ply) sock yarn – I used Opal yarn, purchased from Good Wool Hunting
– 2 x 4mm circular needles (or a set of DPN’s. However you prefer to knit socks)
– 1 stitch marker
– Darning needle and scissors for the finishing up

Cast on 56 stitches. Join in the round. Place 28 stitches on each needle (or spread how you prefer to knit socks)

Knit 1, Purl 1 rib. Complete 26 rows of this K1, P1 rib over the whole cuff.

Main sock pattern:
Knit 4, Purl 3 – repeat over the row. For this pattern, the stitches on needle 1 are the top of the sock, and this pattern will continue until the toe section. The stitches on needle 2 are the back of the leg. This pattern will cease when we reach the heel flap.

Complete this pattern over 34 rows.
Knit 4, purl 3 – repeat over just needle 1 (or the first 28 stitches).

Heel Flap

This occurs on ONLY needle 2 (or the second 28 stitches of your sock).
Row A (on the right side of just needle 2): Slip 1 purlwise, Knit 1, *(Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in back, knit 1). Repeat from * to end of the row on needle 2.
Row B (on the wrong side of just needle 2): Slip 1, purl to the end of the row on just needle 2.

Complete Row A and Row B 14 times for a total of 28 rows.

Heel turn:

This just creates a shape at the back of the foot. This is also just on needle 2 directly following the heel flap. These are short rows, and do not go all the way to the end of the needle. It is very much a case of “trust the process” if you haven’t made socks in this way before.

Row C: Slip 1 purlwise, knit 14, knit 2 together, knit 1. Turn your work.
Row D: Slip 1, purl 3, purl 2 together, purl 1. Turn your work.

Complete these 2 rows (Row C and Row D) on needle 2 only.

Row E: Slip 1 purlwise, knit to one stitch before the gap in your work, knit 2 together, knit 1. Turn your work.
Row F: Slip 1, purl to one stitch before the gap in your work, purl 2 together, knit 1

Complete these 2 rows until you have knitted the last stitch on each end of needle 2.

Row G: Slip 1, knit to the last 2 stitches, knit 2 together.
Row H: Slip 1, purl to the last 2 stitches, purl 2 together.

Complete these 2 rows on needle 2.

Heel Gusset

This bit can be a bit confusing, but it will make sense as you knit a few rows. The first bit is a set up bit.

NEEDLE 2: Knit 7 stitches on needle 2. Place a marker here. This is the centre of the back of the heel. Knit 7 stitches. You are now at the end of the stitches on needle 2. Pick up and knit 15 stitches along the side of the heel flap. This will be the slipped stitches on the edge (these will be easy to see), and then 1 extra pick up from the leg before needle 1.

NEEDLE 1: Knit 4, purl 3 across needle 1.

NEEDLE 2: Pick up and knot the leg from between the stitches on needle 1 and needle 2. Pick up and knit the 14 slipped stitches on the edges of the heel flap. Knit 7 stitches. Slip marker. Knit until the last 3 stitches on needle 2, knit 2 together, knit 1.

NEEDLE 1: Knit 4, purl 3 across needle 1.

NEEDLE 2: Knit 1, SSK (slip 1 as if to knit, slip 1 as if to knit, knit the 2 slipped stitches together which creates a decrease). Knit to marker.

Now it is a bit easier to work out what is happening by counting from marker to marker.

ROW I: Knit to the end of needle 2, continue knit 4, purl 3 rib pattern on needle 1, on needle 2 knit to marker.
ROW J: Knit to the last 3 stitches on needle 2. Knit 2 together, knit 1. Continue knit 4, purl 3 rib pattern on needle 1. On needle 2, knit 1, SSK, knit to marker.

Repeat Row I and Row J until you have 28 stitches on needle 2. I use this marker to check that I have 14 stitches on each side of the needle.

Knit the 14 stitches remaining on needle 2 bringing you back to ordinary row counting. You can remove the marker at this point.

Foot Hugging section

I don’t know what to call this bit, but basically it is a ribbed section to try and get the sock to stay attached to the foot. It’s hopeful.

ROW K: On needle 1, knit 4, purl 3 – continue this rib pattern over the needle. On needle 2, knit 1, purl 1 across the whole needle.

Repeat ROW K until you reach the toe of your foot. For mine, this was 24 rows. You may have shorter or longer feet.

Toe shaping

ROW L: On needle 1: Knit 1, SSK, knit to the last 2, K2 together. Repeat on Needle 2. This decreases 2 stitches per needle, or 4 per row
ROW M: Knit all stitches.

Repeat ROW L and ROW M until you have 14 stitches remaining on each needle.

Kitchener bind off the toe of your sock.
Now make a second sock, darn in your ends, and wear your socks.